Tag: UNESCO Japan

Superlatives and Contrasts

by David LovejoyTravelLeave a Comment on Superlatives and Contrasts

Tokyo was already one of the world’s most populated cities way back when it was known as Edo—a few centuries ago. At present, the greater metropolitan area is the most densely populated area on the planet with over 37 million last count. It could also be considered the largest city…ever. The distance between the urban center and its most distant satellite is over 1,000km (660mi), but there’s a lot of ocean in between. I refer of course to the tiny and remote extremity of the megalopolis, the Ogasawara Islands (administratively part of Tokyo). In 2013 the island chain enjoyed UNESCO World Heritage designation, as a place of “outstanding universal value”, one of four such locations in Japan.

The only way to reach the “Galapagos of Asia” is by one boat, the Ogasawara Maru, which makes the voyage roughly once a week (http://www.ogasawarakaiun.co.jp/english/). It takes a little over 25 hours in fair weather (each way) and considerably longer on rougher seas. If you are unaccustomed to traveling great distances by midsized boat at speed, it’s kind of like being in a state of perpetual turbulence. However, the silver lining is two-fold; the constant rocking puts you to sleep like a baby in mother’s arms, which makes the time pass much more quickly than you might imagine, and when you do get up for a stroll to the toilet or restaurant, you get to walk like an inebriate. Win! Both the toilets and restaurant are adequate, but I’d recommend the numerous vending machines over the café. You can of course also bring pre-purchased food and drink onboard, which is not a bad idea, but not essential. For those who are susceptible to seasickness, two types of medicine are sold onboard to counter the effects, one for before, the other for after the onset of symptoms.

This is certainly one of those trips where the journey is every bit as important as the destination. I guess it should come as no surprise that your fellow travelers are pretty interesting themselves. For this distance, few opt for the old ways of travel. No airport? Pass. This is like going from Paris to Berlin by horse. Okay, it’s not a junk…that would truly be hardcore, but it’s no cruise ship either. A middle-aged gentleman (oyaji) I chatted with travels extensively and exclusively in Japan. He had completed the Shikoku Pilgrimage (88 temples) three times, and he reckons he’s been to over 100 islands. A lady I met had been to as many countries. There’s a palpable sense of adventure here, not just relaxing on a tropical beach, though (fortunately) there’s that too.

If you’re interested in diving, fishing, whale watching, swimming with dolphins, kayaking, going on night hikes to see bats (with red lights) and luminous mushrooms, or going on day hikes through anywhere not clearly marked on the map, you’ll need to arrange a guide. To ensure you’re doing what you want, when you want, at the best price, it’s obviously best to book what you can beforehand: http://www.ogasawaramura.com/en/. There is also information available on the boat and at the B-Ship tourist information center on the island (about 1000ft/300m to your left after disembarking).

The islands are (likely soon to be were) known in English as the Bonin Islands, from the Japanese word bunin, which is an old way of reading the Chinese characters for “uninhabited”. Though some evidence suggests a prehistoric human presence on the island, they were aptly named by the time a small group of Polynesian and European settlers arrived from the Kingdom of Hawaii and set up a small colony. They, along with their descendants, were allowed to remain on the island after Japan sent its own group of settlers from Hachijōjima to formally claim the chain towards the end of the Edo Period. However, all inhabitants were relocated during the Second World War and the main island of Chichi-jima (Father Island) was used as a military base. Some interesting remnants to that effect can still be seen throughout the island, such as military tunnels, air raid shelters, artillery, and even a torpedoed ship.

For those who have either a Japanese or international driver license, renting a motorbike is a fun and easy way to get around the island. Otherwise, both electric and regular bicycles are available to rent at roughly double the going rate of more conveniently reached locations, but still well worth it. There’s also a community bus that departs once every 60-90 minutes and connects the main village of Ōmura and Futami Port (where the Ogasawara Maru docks) in the north with Kominato Beach in the south, passing by a couple great beaches and viewpoints along the way. The entire journey takes a mere twenty minutes and is good fun, as all drivers seem to think they’re in a Formula One car racing for pole position. Fares are ¥200, and it’s probably best to forgo the unlimited use tickets as you’d have to try really hard to get value out of them.

As previously mentioned, there are quite a few beautiful small beaches on the island, great for a swim or snorkel, but take care not to drift too far from shore or you’ll be whisked away by the rapid currents and find yourself in deep ocean and trouble quickly. Remember, you’re basically on a space station. Most beaches can easily be reached by bus and a short walk; a few on the east side of the island will require more stamina and a guide. The most remote beach you can visit without a guide is John Beach, a five-hour round trip hike from the last bus stop, Kominato Kaigan. If you are up for this, make sure you thoroughly clean your clothes and the soles of your shoes at the trailhead (equipment and instructions provided) to keep the fragile and unique ecosystem of the island free of contamination.

There are plenty of restaurants to choose from in Ōmura, with a surprising variety of cuisine. Heart Rock Café has shark burgers; you can eat local sushi at Marujō, and if you’re planning to be out for the day, pick up a delicious and hearty bentō at Island Deli. Ogasawara is also one of the few places in the world where you can try sea turtle, either stewed or raw. A number of izakaya such as Radford, Fuku Chan, Jinbe-an, Charlie Brown, and Bar Creyon serve up the evening entertainment with homemade sides until midnight, or a little after, and are good places to mingle with the locals and hear their stories. Shopping for original handicrafts and clothing is another fun and nice way of supporting the local economy, but beware of truly envious hours of operation.

The best coffee is served take-away out of a cute trailer and can only be found off-island at Fuji Rock. It’s called 30’s because the proprietor opened the place when he was 30 years of age. Fair enough. He said it might change to 40’s in 6 years. I hope it’s called Hundies one day.

The only other inhabited island is the even smaller and quieter Haha-jima (Mother Island) further to the south. The Hahajima Maru departs almost daily, and connects Mother with Father in about two hours. The attractions are much the same, albeit with less people, and prior reservations more of a necessity. Do also be aware that boat schedules are subject to delays and cancellations depending upon the weather, so give yourself a little buffer when planning your holiday.

When the time comes for your departure, it seems like the whole island shows up to wave goodbye and quite a few ships will even follow you out to sea for a moving farewell. But you’re just going to another part of the city. Ah…Tokyo, truly a city of superlatives and contrasts.

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Nikko is Nippon

by David LovejoyTravelLeave a Comment on Nikko is Nippon

I remember a particular and inescapable JR promotional travel poster from years back. Unlike other advertisements, the deceptively simple message was actually more striking than the beautiful image. Three simple words: Nikko is Nippon.  Beating like a drum as you marched through any and every train station in the country. Nikko is Nippon. Okay, what does that mean?

The country we call Japan today has had a lot of identities over the years…err, millennia. Actually, many important people and places throughout Japanese history have had multiple names, which makes memorizing them about as difficult as remembering the many different ways to read kanji (the adopted Chinese characters used in the written language). Speaking of which, there are two ways to read the kanji for the name of the country: Nihon and Nippon. The latter of which is more formal, and often used patriotically to evoke everything strong and good about the nation’s legacy that will continue to shine through the ages. It is the yang to Nihon’s yin. So then, what about Nikkō embodies this intangible idea, this identity?

In a word: everything. The archipelago we call Japan today would look very different if it weren’t for a series of unification attempts (battles) set in place by a succession of three men, the latter of which is posthumously referred to as Ieyasu Tokugawa (again, many names). Okay, naturally the archipelago would still exist, but what would come to be known as Japan would consist of much less than the 6,000+ islands it does today. A similar unification attempt had a different outcome when the Silla Kingdom enlisted in the assistance of the Tang Dynasty and gave away half of it’s northern neighbor’s land to China as compensation, severely shrinking the size of Korea and sparking the flame that would later be fanned into the north-south divide seen today.

In Japan’s case, the unification led to an increase, rather than a decrease in its size, which would subsequently make it easier to add the tropical islands of Okinawa and the northern island of Hokkaido to this amalgamation (kind of like Hawaii and Alaska respective to the U.S. in a strange coincidence), but I digress. Japan’s history is repeatedly marked by sudden, drastic, sweeping changes, and the emergence of the Edo Period was no exception. Perhaps most welcome, was the long-awaited peace this era ushered in. The isolation policies implemented and enforced, allowed Japanese culture to flourish largely unfettered by the rapid geopolitical tides affecting its neighbors at the time. This of course would largely come to an abrupt end with the Meiji Restoration, and be subjected to a further, external mutation in the Shōwa period, but provided a well-delineated backdrop against which to refocus a sense of modern cultural identity in the turbulent aftermath of the eras that succeeded it.

The primary shōgun in the ultimate shogunate is laid to rest at Tōshō-gū. In accordance to his wishes, he was enshrined like a deity. In stark contrast to the reserved aesthetic of other shrines, the palatial structures are ornately gilded in gold and enveloped with intricate woodcarvings and paintings. A short, but rigorous climb up many stone steps through the forest beyond and above the mausoleum will lead you to a bronze urn that actually contains the remains of Tokugawa Ieyasu. The man who moved the capital from Kyoto to what would become modern day Tokyo, who strategically capitalized on the legacies of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Oda Nobunaga before him, who became more powerful than the Emperor, and forged a nation that would enchant the world for centuries after his parting. It’s a humbling privilege to circumambulate his final resting place and, like stargazing, makes one feel mighty small.

Shinkyō, or sacred bridge, marks the entrance to the UNESCO World Heritage designated temples and shrines of Nikkō. It is considered to be one of Japan’s most beautiful bridges, and belongs to Futarasan jinja, a Shintō shrine adjacent to Tōshō-gū and dedicated to the gods of the three holiest mountains in Nikkō. The most prominent of these is Mount Nantai, also referred to as Futarasan, to which the shrine owes its namesake, and gorgeous Lake Chūzenji its existence. A violent eruption formed the lake approximately 20,000 years ago, and now the only outlet for its waters is Kegon Falls, one of Japan’s most impressive waterfalls. The lake is the source of the Daiya River, over which Shinkyō spans. And so, it goes around in a circle, like a snake eating its own tail (the Ouroboros). Speaking of snakes, legend has it that Shinkyō was created when the founder of Futarasan jinja, Shōdō Shōnin, led an expedition to climb Mt. Nantai. He and his followers couldn’t cross the roaring rapids of the Daiya River, so they prayed.  A giant god released two snakes and they formed a bridge that would allow the party to continue. Hence, the bridge’s alternative name: Yamasuga-no-Jabashi, or Snake Bridge of Sedge. Now, that really is cyclical.

Nikkō means sunlight, and just as sunshine is intrinsic to sunrises, so too is Nikkō essential to the Land of the Rising Sun. The natural beauty, cultural and historic significance make it a must-see for tourists and residents alike, as outlined in the Japanese proverb: “Nikkō wo minai naka wa kekkō to iu na”, which loosely translates to, “Don’t say beautiful until you’ve seen Nikkō.”

Nikkō is located in Tochigi Prefecture, roughly two hours north of Tokyo. The two fastest ways to get there from here are on Tobu’s Spacia train or JR’s shinkansen (bullet train). The latter option is free with the Japan Rail Pass. If you take the shinkansen, you’ll have to transfer to the Nikkō line in Utsunomiya, which breaks up the trip nicely and is famous for its gyōza (meat and vegetable dumplings). Nikkō makes for a great daytrip from Tokyo, but if you’d like to really take it in, and especially if you’d like to visit Kegon Falls and Lake Chūzenji, an overnight stay is recommended.

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